| Death and Taxes - A Story
Of Beer Sharp-witted Benjamin Franklin once
observed there were two guarantees in life - death and taxes. Simple, but irrefutable, that statement touches every facet of life. Franklin's two constants
have continuously shaped everything we love, fear, anticipate, dread, and enjoy -
including beer.
From
ancient times to present, beer, like us, has never escaped far from the shadowy twins
known as the taxman and the grim reaper. Civilizations of antiquity and history's earliest
records tell the tale again and again of death, taxes and beer.
In the
beginning, brewers of the Fertile Crescent helped establish the beer-rich fabric of
civilizations in Mesopotamia and Babylonia. More than a drink or mere dietary staple, beer
had a major role in religion, commerce and culture. Soon thereafter it became a form of
currency; goods and services were purchased, and Tariffs were collected, in beer. Life
without it was unthinkable, and thus, beer was taken seriously. Considering beer a
stabilizing factor for his kingdom, King Hammurabi of Babylonia, didn't leave the quality
of such a valuable commodity to chance. In 1750 BC, he issued a royal decree forbidding
anyone to tamper with beer. Penalties were severe, any brewer found guilty of watering
down beer was ordered executed. Death and beer were linked; taxes would follow.
As the
kingdom of Egypt rose along the banks of the Nile, it was built on a solid foundation of
beer. Realizing this, and faced with the enormous cost of monuments, pyramids and tombs,
the Pharaohs instituted one of the first formal beer taxes. They reasoned it would fund
public works and curb drunkenness. Interestingly, beer was thought so valuable it was
established as one of the ways to pay the tax.
Tied so
closely to beer in life, the Egyptians refused to believe they couldn't take it with them.
As a common part of burial customs, the wealthy arranged for meals augmented with jars of
beer, packed around them in their tombs, provisions for the journey to the after-life.
Truly affluent Egyptians, uncertain of the length of death's trail, made additional
preparations. In these tombs, archeologists have discovered all the ingredients for beer,
and the vessels necessary to transform it into a type of graveyard, mini-brewery.
Across
the ocean in South America, emerging cultures were also adopting beer into their
traditions. Religious leaders prepared human sacrifices for their role with beer and other
intoxicants before leading them to the altar and death.
If death
were by natural causes, beer also had a role. Some tribes cremated their dead and used the
ashes to 'finish' the beer. Women brewers in these cultures held a position of honor, and
were laid to rest with their brew pots and tools around them.
Societies
of northern lands crafted their own unique, beer beliefs. Viking poems narrate heroic
tales of warriors, killed in battle, who after death enter Valhalla. There they toasted
earthly accomplishments by washing down sides of meat with large horns of ale, served by
the beautiful and buxom Valkyries.
Viewing
death in combat as the highest honor, northern peoples often protected their beer to the
very gates of hell. Scottish legend tells of the 'Picts' a clan that specialized in the
brewing of 'Heather Ale'. Known for ferocity in battle, they successfully defended their
tiny kingdom against a number of enemies, including the Romans. Eventually however, a
rival tribe conquered them.
Cornered
at the edge of a cliff, the Pict king, last member of his tribe who knew the secret
recipe, was offered leniency if he divulged the formula. Considering his options for only
a moment, the king turned away from his captors and flung himself off the cliff, choosing
death over the disgrace of revealing the secret of Heather Ale.
As modern
European society evolved, and turned from a multitude of gods to Christianity, they
retained many of the old, venerated customs. It was a clever strategy, by slightly
altering the original intent, it made conversion familiar, and thereby more comfortable.
Christians of the Medieval years acknowledged the certainties of death and celebrated each
loved ones passing with "death meals" (also known as heritage meals.) A
widespread practice of the day, it was a gathering of friends and relatives of the
deceased on the seventh and thirteenth days after death. As a combination of grieving,
celebration, and send-off, it was an extended ceremony of prayer and mass, frequently
punctuated with beer drinking and remembrance.
Providing
comfort however, wasn't the sole objective of the clergy. Throughout the dark and middle
ages the church expanded its social influence and solidified its political power. Touching
nearly every part of life, the church gave special attention to beer. Beer had become the
dominant drink of northern Europe and the clerics recognized it as a reliable source of
revenue.
Taxes on
beer during that era were levied in the form of licensing fees. It was an indirect tax,
targeting the production of Gruit, the mixture of herbs brewers used before the
introduction of hops. Laws dictated by the church limited the availability of Gruit to
brewers. Only those Gruit houses approved by the church could supply the ever-growing
number of breweries with the 'secret' mixture.
In a way
the church was doubling beer's payoff. It incorporated beer into a broad number of church
functions, ensuring the congregations attendance, and it made money, through the control
of Gruit, on every barrel consumed.
Church
authorities didn't necessarily purchase the beer used in ceremonies and feasts. Often it
was obtained by the other type of taxing called 'tithes.' Church documents from the
Bavarian brewing center of Freising, dated in 815 AD, specified an annual payment of
"
one young wild boar, two hens, one goose, and one load of beer."
Payment
of beer tax in any form was sober business. In Aix-la-Chapple, the council of 1272
confronted the non-payment of beer tax with extreme penalties. Brewers found guilty of
avoiding or cheating on taxes were punished by chopping off their right hand. Wisely, the
council also saw there was cheating in the alehouses.
Tavern
keepers had been avoiding the beer tax by importing beer without paying the tariff. To
stop this, the council stipulated that any tavern avoiding the tax was to be destroyed.
England adopted similar laws, and in 1625 declared that any tavern keeper failing to pay
the annual licensing fee was to be whipped. A second offense was subject to a month in
jail.
Over the
centuries, as beer further secured its place, authorities increasingly relied on revenue
they collected from beer. Eventually the escalating tax rates brought about another sort
of death, this time to the breweries. Taxes imposed by Wilhelm IV and Ludwig X in 1543
pushed brewers into open revolt. It gained them a temporary reprieve, but before long
taxes were raised again.
In town
after town, brewers felt the vicious bite of taxation. The situation in the city of
Hamburg, Germany illustrated the effect. In the late 1500's the city boasted more than
1500 brewers, but over the following century, as taxes soared, one brewery after another
folded, until by 1698 only 120 remained. It was a story repeated throughout Europe and
later spread further.
Never
idle, death kept another date with beer in England. For centuries English politics had
been discussed and debated in the ale-houses of London. Generally, the various political
factions would meet in a favorite tavern, discuss the issues at hand, hoist a few mugs and
be on their way. All seemed routine, but on the night of October 31, 1715 members of two
rival political groups, the 'Hanoverians' and the 'Jacobites' unwittingly scheduled
meetings for the same taproom. Fighting erupted and soon spilled into the streets. In the
days that followed violent street brawls resulted in mounting casualty lists and the
fighting became known as the 'Mug House Riots."
London
also suffered one of the world's worst brewery disasters. On October 16, 1814, London's
Meux & Company Brewery was conducting the daily routine of making beer when an
employee noticed a metal band on one of the giant wooden holding tanks seemed misaligned.
It was. Later that day the band snapped, bursting the 22 foot high, 4,000 barrel vat. Its
contents slammed into the adjacent tank, rupturing it, and the combined wave of beer
crashed through the brewery's stout, brick walls.
Without
warning, the neighborhood was engulfed in a tidal wave of beer. Startled, the patrons of
the nearby 'Tavinstock Arms' tavern were frozen in their tracks when a river of beer swept
through the door, flooded the taproom, and collapsed the floor, plunging customers and bar
maid into a cellar rapidly filling with beer. It was a scene repeated throughout a
five-block radius. While some residents fled to upper floors, others rescued neighbors
from houses reduced to rubble, but still more took advantage of the disaster by gleefully
diving into gutters flowing with beer. When the foam cleared, twelve lay dead, crushed in
the path of the escaping beer. Eight more also perished from what investigators labeled
"death by alcohol coma."
Mass beer
related deaths weren't limited to England. In 1855 Chicago was growing fast and trouble
was brewing. The city's immigrants were enflamed by an administration filled with
prejudice. Pushed to the limits of tolerance, the final insult was a city proclamation
forcing a Sunday closure of ethnic beer halls. Owners felt the law discriminating and
illegal, on the following Sunday they ignored the statute, opened the beer halls, and were
promptly arrested.
Normally
peacefully citizens armed themselves and marched on the courthouse. At the intersection of
Clark and Randolph streets they were confronted by a company of police. Fighting broke out
and gunfire lasted well into the evening.
Organized
rebellion also led to the first real beer tax in the United States. From the time of
independence, American beer tax was largely indirect, typically in the form of licensing
fees and duties on malt and hops. That changed during the civil war. On July 1, 1862
Congress authorized a tax of $1per barrel.
Although
brewers rallied behind the tax for the duration of the war, they objected to Congress
having set the rate equal to that imposed on distilled spirits. Brewers recognized that
grouping them with distillers was an early move by temperance forces in a battle that
would stretch over the next 70 years. In that time it would become the most unique, and
most despised, feature of American culture.
South of
the border, beer was integrated in another much different aspect of culture - one
associated with death. Reaching back centuries, Latin Americans celebrated the 'Day of the
Dead.' Observed each year on November 1st and 2nd, it represents a combination of Aztecs
and modern Christian ideas. Based on a belief that departed loved ones return for a visit
each year on these days, families prepare weeks in advance for the graveyard festivals.
As a
ceremonial act of respect for the deceased, relatives carry elaborate meals, tequila and
beer to cemeteries for sharing with the departed. Though recently encroached upon by the
more commercialized 'Halloween' it remains a significant holiday, celebrated throughout
Mexico.
Modern
History offered no more chance of escape from death and taxes than in all the previous
centuries of human experience. In the US, State and Federal Politicians saw beer as an
easy way of bolstering the treasury, and 'Sin Taxes' increasingly became a favorite method
of raising money.
Use of
'Sin Taxes' was insidious enough, but the worst political blunder of the last century was
prohibition. The country went dry, breweries died, and so did scores of Americans.
As the
beer supply dried up, organized crime stepped in. There was easy money in supplying
illegal beer and booze to a public ready to defy their government. In major cities
mobsters obtained ownership of the boarded up breweries and barely concealed the
production of beer. Inevitably, rival groups clashed over the territories they staked out.
Tax-free alcohol sales were profitable, and much too attractive for uncontested surrender.
It was a situation that naturally fueled violence, and led to mob-wars, most notably the
"St. Valentine's Day massacre."
In 1932,
while campaigning for the presidency, Franklin Roosevelt made repeal one of his
objectives, but indirectly, taxes may have been more important than stopping gangland
bloodshed. FDR was certain that reopening breweries, in the middle of the Great
Depression, would mean instant jobs for more than 150,000 out-of-work brewers. On the
surface it looked as though his motivation was employment and increasing the circulation
of money through beer sales, but in his mind, Roosevelt must have been relying on the
windfall of beer tax to help drag the government out of its financial crisis. Whatever the
reason, repeal and the beer tax helped refuel the economy. It also reintroduced the
politician's friend, the 'Sin Tax' which became a mainstay of revenue generating for the
remainder of the 1900's.
In the
last years of the 20th century, death too, continued to use beer as his vehicle. During
1996, a herd of elephants in India broke into a rural hut and consumed a fresh batch of
homebrew. Becoming aroused in their intoxicated state, they stampeded and crushed several
villagers. Sadly, beer and death also touched African nations, where people fashioned
inexpensive and illegal beer by mixing home-fermented grain with various substances
including wood alcohol and sometimes gasoline. Those drinking the lethal potion suffered a
dreadful poisoning, frequently leading to death. It was as if the grim reaper knew they
couldn't resist.
At times
we all steal moments from death and taxes. Through various methods we sometimes manage to
briefly push them aside. For many, escape is found in a relaxing glass of beer. It's a
short reprieve that doesn't last. The two dark twins constantly lurk around the corner.
Where or when they'll next strike is unpredictable, but as Ben Franklin would smugly
observe, there is one certainty, there's no escape from death and taxes.
Reprinted courtesy of Gregg
Smith
Copyright 2002 North American
Brewers' Association |