Bardenay: America's First Distillery
Pub
In Boise’s Historical District, Kevin Settles
and Dave Krick have established America’s first distillery pub in December
1999. Bardenay Restaurant Distillery, confirmed by the BATF as the first in
the country, opened its doors for the new millenium with the focus on high
quality cocktails, and great food.
Bardenay’s name comes from a term used by
sailors for the ship captain’s cocktail hour, when the work stops and the
fun begins. Cocktails and fun is what this pub is all about. They not only
make their own spirits but also stock the back bar with top of the line
products from around the world and employ a fun and knowledgeable staff.
Attention to detail is their hallmark and it
starts with the best of the world’s gins, vodkas and other spirits and
continues down to the freshest quality garnishes.
The building, a turn of the century brick
edifice situated at 6th and Grove in the refurbished Basque block
of Boise, offers an upscale décor rich in wood, brass and chrome that is
nicely balanced by the old wood roof trusses and vintage brick. The
centerpiece of the interior is the gleaming brass and chrome German pot
still ensconced behind an octagonal glass partition at the back. The glass
partition is not only eye-catching but also functions to separate the
restaurant from the distillery which is a necessity to obtain a license from
the BATF. The distillery is kept totally separate from the restaurant and
bar by law. No spirits go into the distillery room and no products leave
without the proper tax stamps.
The still produces a trio of products for the
bar; vodka, gin and rum. The rum is unremarkable. It is made for mixing in
cocktails and does as good a job as most. The vodka is a work in progress
although all of the components for good vodka are there; long legs, a robust
burn in the nose and palate and a good long finish. However it suffers from
an oily, sweet nose with a noticeable aroma of vanilla. Owner Kevin Settles
says, “The vodka is still in the process of refinement; we are working on
cleaning up the nose”. The latest test batch was noticeably cleaner and is
very promising.
The gin is a delightful, well-crafted example of
a London dry style. The gin smiths for this spirit were the proprietors
Kevin and Dave and the authors of “Shaken not Stirred”, the martini guide
book, Anistatia Miller, and Jared Brown. “We are all martini drinkers and
were very careful in formulating this gin”, says Kevin “Its too easy to make
a gin with a hole in it.” In a head-to-head taste test with some fine
English gins, Bardenay fit nicely between Beefeater’s London Dry and Corney
& Barrow London Dry. It is a crystal clear gin with long thin legs whose
aroma is a well-balanced combination of juniper and citrus. It has a nice
alcohol burn both in the nose and on the tongue without overpowering the
flavors and aromas. The finish is clean with just a hint of juniper and
lingering notes citrus. Barman, Patrick says, “It’s liked by people who are
sometimes put off by gin’s bitterness. Some gin tastes like sliding your
tongue down a pine tree they’re so bitter. Bardenay Gin is not bitter, it’s
well balanced.”
Bardenay prides themselves in offering “drinks
you can’t find anywhere”. The innovative bar staff is continually
formulating new cocktail recipes. The very nice house martini, garnished
with frozen, blue cheese stuffed Maytag olives, proves the house gin is as
good as advertised. Drinks such as the Iguanabana, a concoction of Bardenay
rum, fresh lime and guanabana juice proves the creativity of the bartenders.
Beer drinkers fear not, Bardenay has two dozen
taps with selections ranging from Guinness and hand pumped cask conditioned
ales to domestic micros and major brands.
The restaurant features a full menu that should
please anyone from brunch to dinner. Prices are competitive with other
restaurants in this trendy area which is just three blocks from the state
capital.
With a wide ranging selection of drinks, spirits
produced on premise, pleasing décor and fine foods, Bardenay is a don’t miss
stop in Boise.
Bob E. Beckwith ©2002
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